Is the film easy to install?
It depends how good your DIY skills are, I always say it’s a bit like hanging wallpaper some people can do it others find it harder. It’s safe to say you probably won’t get as good finish as we would but if you have good DIY skills and follow the instructions carefully then there’s no reason why you can’t get a good finish. Tip: Contact us on 0800 107 7965 for a quote for installation as it might be less expensive then you think.
What tools will I need to fit the film?
You will need a spray bottle to hold your slip solution, some baby shampoo or washing up liquid, a sharp knife (preferably with a snap off blade), a glass scraper, soft and hard squeegee, some lint free towel, heat gun (if you are doing a rear window on a car, not needed for standard flat glass) and some people like to use a trim guide. Tip: We sell a standard installation kit with everything you will need to fit window film for only £9.99, also available is a deluxe kit and professional kit if you have a large number of windows to film. We also offer a car installation kit with and without a heat gun. All installation kits are available online, in our window film tools section.
Do I need a heat gun?
If you are filming standard flat glass in a home or office then the answer is no. If, however, you are tinting a car window then you will usually need a heat gun for the rear window as it is concave and curved from top to bottom and left to right, this means the film will need to be heat shrunk to the contour of the glass before it is installed. Usually the side windows are flat or curved only in one direction, if it’s a newer car then there may be a chance that the side windows will need to be heat shrunk as well as these can sometimes be curved in both directions. Tip: Sometimes a powerful hairdryer can be sufficient; you will soon be able to tell if it is warm enough to heat shrink the film
Will the scraper scratch the glass?
If used correctly then it shouldn’t do. Always make sure you have a sharp blade as blunt or rusty blades can easily damage the glass. Always push the blade, do not pull it back over the glass or this could pull debris back with it and could scratch the glass. You must always be extremely careful, not only could this scratch the glass but it could also cause injury if used incorrectly. Only use a glass scraper if you are comfortable with how to use it correctly. Tip: Why not call us on 0800 107 7965 for a quote for installation, it may be less expensive than you think.
How much slip solution will I need?
We recommend 1 teaspoon of baby shampoo or washing up liquid per pint of water. The amount you will need depends on the size of the job, for a small job then a 500ml sprayer will be fine, for a larger job you will find it easier to have a larger 2L or 5L sprayer. Tip: The slip solution should be just slippery enough so that the film can be moved into position when it’s put onto the glass, in summer use a higher concentration of shampoo or washing up liquid to water to avoid drying out too quick.
Do I fit the film on the inside or the outside?
The film is fitted internally; it can be fitted externally but will not last anywhere near as long as an internal application. For example, a reflective Silver 20 would come with 10 years warranty when installed by us internally, if fitted externally we would give only a 1 year warranty. We sell certain films in external grades which have weatherable coatings, it is still better, where possible, to fit films internally as an external grade film still won’t last as long as an internal one, plus it is harder to get a good finish externally as the wind can blow dust under the film. Tip: Even if it is going to be a bit more work to fit the film internally it is always better to do so.
There’s no backing liner on my film?
Most films have a clear backing liner which is very thin and not visible to the eye. If there was no backing liner on then the film would stick to itself so there is always backing liner on the films. Vinyl does on the other hand usually have a paper backing which is much easier to see.
How can I get the backing liner off?
The backing liner on some films is very thin and can be difficult to remove – the best way to remove the film from the liner is to get a piece of sellotape at either side of a corner and this should pull the liner away.
Why won’t the film stick?
The only way that a film won’t stick is if the backing liners isn’t removed, if you remove the liner then stick the adhesive part of the film to the glass this will stick. The film will take a few days to dry out so if you are filming a car window which will go up and down don’t wind the windows down for up to a week to allow the adhesive to set fully, otherwise the film could peel off.
Why does my film look like it has a rash?
People say it has very tiny pin prick sized spots under the film and that it looks like it’s got a rash or the film has started to bubble. This is actually dirt or dust that’s trapped underneath the film. This can get under the film because of a number of reasons. The first is that the window isn’t cleaned properly and so tiny specs of dirt (this may not be visible to the eye) has been trapped underneath the film. Another cause is dust in the atmosphere, especially if workers are in the room or if fitted externally. Another way this can be caused is it the film touched something when the backing liner has been removed and as such dirt has adhered to the underside of the film. There is no way to get this out really, if it’s a very small area and the film hasn’t had time to stick you can sometimes pull the film back and spray with lots of water to remove, this can sometimes help but not always. This will usually require another piece of film to be fitted. Tip: Make sure the room is dust free and the window is thoroughly cleaned first (using a glass scarper), try to make the time that the backing liner has been removed to when it has been put on the glass as short as possible, use a second person if it’s a large piece of film so the adhesive doesn’t touch anything.
Can the film be easily removed?>
When it’s first stuck on, within the first 30 minutes it should pull straight off easily, leaving no residue. If the film has dried out then when the film is pulled off it will leave a residue. The only way to clean this will be to use a glass scraper and water. Tip: If the glass is toughened you can sometimes use a wall paper steamer to remove the film, this will soften the adhesive and can sometimes allow the film to be pulled off with no residue left. You must make sure before doing this that the glass will not crack when hot, especially on a cold day. Be aware that laminated safety glass is not the same as toughened and will usually crack if heated in this way.
How long will the film take to dry?
The film can take up to 30 days to cure (dry out). On warmer days or in warmer areas it can take less than this. It’s usually adhered well after a few days but to be on the safe side you should allow enough time for the film to completely dry out before cleaning it in any way.
What is the legal limit on the front windows of my car?
On the front windscreen you are not allowed to put any film at all, apart from a sun strip of up to around 6” at the top, but this must not obscure the vision in any way. On the front side windows you must allow at least 70% of light to pass through (all windows behind the front seats can be as dark as you want - there’s no law on these). Tip: Be aware that if you put a 70% VLT (Visible light transmittance) on the front side windows of your car which is in line with the legal limit, if your glass already has a slight tint, it will put the windows above the legal limit and you could be ordered to remove the film still.